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Is your phone not detecting your charging cable? Does your charging port feel loose? It might be time to replace your Lightning connector assembly. Use this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly which includes the lower microphones, antenna cable, and Lightning connector.

Note that this repair does require a fair amount of disassembly, and it will require time and caution.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Yanıt

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Yanıt

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Yanıt

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Yanıt

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Yanıt

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Yanıt

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Yanıt

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

  3. Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Yanıt

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Yanıt

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Yanıt

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Yanıt

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Yanıt

  4. Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Yanıt

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Yanıt

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Yanıt

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Yanıt

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Yanıt

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Yanıt

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Yanıt

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Yanıt

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Yanıt

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Yanıt

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Yanıt

  5. Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
    • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

  6. Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.
    • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

    • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

  7. Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

  8. Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Yanıt

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Yanıt

  9. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  10. Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place. Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.
    • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

  11. Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Yanıt

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Yanıt

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Yanıt

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Yanıt

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Yanıt

    • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Yanıt

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Yanıt

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Yanıt

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Yanıt

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Yanıt

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Yanıt

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Yanıt

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Yanıt

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Yanıt

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Yanıt

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Yanıt

  12. Remove the lower connector bracket.
    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Yanıt

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Yanıt

  13. Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

  14. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

  15. Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Yanıt

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Yanıt

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Yanıt

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Yanıt

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Yanıt

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Yanıt

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Yanıt

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  16. Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Yanıt

  17. Remove the display assembly.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Yanıt

  18. Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.
    • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.

  19. Remove the vent. Remove the vent.
    • Remove the vent.

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

  21. Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.
    • Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

    My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!

    Salva Alcón - Yanıt

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  23. Remove the Taptic Engine. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  24. Remove the Phillips screw securing the Wi-Fi diversity antenna to  the rear case:
    • Remove the Phillips screw securing the Wi-Fi diversity antenna to the rear case:

    • One 3.2 mm screw

  25. Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
    • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 2.0 mm screw

  26. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

    Hey may i ask…what is the use of both of the antenna cables?i just opened my iphone 7 plus and i found both of the cables are broken.if both of the cables are broken,what does it effect on my iphone?

    Mohd Wazirul - Yanıt

  27. Use tweezers to derout the antenna cables from their bracket on the logic board. Use tweezers to derout the antenna cables from their bracket on the logic board.
    • Use tweezers to derout the antenna cables from their bracket on the logic board.

  28. Use tweezers to remove the antenna cables from the clip on the speaker. Make sure to grasp the cable near the clip in order to avoid damaging the cable.
    • Use tweezers to remove the antenna cables from the clip on the speaker.

    • Make sure to grasp the cable near the clip in order to avoid damaging the cable.

    They pull off to the side.

    Ark - Yanıt

  29. Use the tip of a spudger to slide the speaker assembly towards the logic board and off of the rear case. Use the tip of a spudger to slide the speaker assembly towards the logic board and off of the rear case.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to slide the speaker assembly towards the logic board and off of the rear case.

  30. Remove the speaker.
    • Remove the speaker.

  31. Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

    • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

  32. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

  33. Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case: One 1.3 mm screw
    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

  34. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  35. Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module. Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.

  36. Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

  37. Remove the upper cable bracket. Remove the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  38. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

  39. Remove the Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna: Three 1.2 mm screws
    • Remove the Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

  40. Remove the top left antenna. Remove the top left antenna.
    • Remove the top left antenna.

    ** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

    iBroke - Yanıt

  41. Remove the following Phillips screws:
    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

  42. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

    What's this bracket called

    Cris Velasquez - Yanıt

    %#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

    azowux - Yanıt

  43. Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.
    • Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

    Mike Moran - Yanıt

    I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

    Ark - Yanıt

    I hate getting the deep into a repair to find there’s a tool missing. This bit should be part of the toolkit!

    Ark - Yanıt

    I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

    bronyaur - Yanıt

  44. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.
    • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

  45. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

  46. Remove the following screws:
    • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 2.2 mm standoff screws

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    The lowest standoff screw is different than others, so be careful when reinstaling them

    dominik.balasko - Yanıt

  47. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.
    • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  48. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up. Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

  49. Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.
    • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

    Reassembly note: Remember to tuck the logic board under the logic board grounding bracket that we loosened in step #44.

    Ark - Yanıt

  50. Remove the 2.9 mm Phillips screw from the lightning connector.
    • Remove the 2.9 mm Phillips screw from the lightning connector.

  51. Remove the spring contact from the lightning connector. Remove the spring contact from the lightning connector.
    • Remove the spring contact from the lightning connector.

    What’s the purpose of this contact? Is it just a ground?

    Joshua Muir - Yanıt

  52. Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the lightning connector cable in place.
    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the lightning connector cable in place.

  53. Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case. Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case. Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case.
    • Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case.

  54. Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the rear case.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the rear case.

    What are these connectors 4? I noticed a tiny chip next to the one on the right if you're looking at the phone face-to-face and on the backside of the charging port is some heavy circuitry for the left side... If the one on the right is broken what can a person expect their phone to do differently? Is this connector on the right hand side of the charging port attributed to anything specifically? Will my phone operate as normal without this?

    billybarter - Yanıt

  55. Use the pointed end of a spudger to separate the two microphones from the bottom of the rear case. Use the pointed end of a spudger to separate the two microphones from the bottom of the rear case.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to separate the two microphones from the bottom of the rear case.

    When reassembling, the right microphone (the one on the left in the above picture) has a metal back that has two alignment tabs. One is on the bottom left, and if you just try to push the microphone down into position it will be held up by the tab. The tab is black plastic and not real apparent unless you have some decent light on it.

    bronyaur - Yanıt

  56. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing Lightning connector cable, making it easier to remove.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing Lightning connector cable, making it easier to remove.

    • Use a hairdryer or reheat your iOpener to heat the lower edge of the phone.

    • Wait for about a minute, allowing the adhesive to warm up before proceeding to the next step.

  57. Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case. Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case. Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case.
    • Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case.

  58. Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case. Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case. Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.
    • Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.

  59. Continue to slide the pick underneath the lightning connecter assembly. Stop sliding the pick once it passes the battery.
    • Continue to slide the pick underneath the lightning connecter assembly.

    • Stop sliding the pick once it passes the battery.

  60. Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the assembly towards the  lightning connector. Stop sliding the pick when it is reaches the lightning connector. Stop sliding the pick when it is reaches the lightning connector.
    • Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the assembly towards the lightning connector.

    • Stop sliding the pick when it is reaches the lightning connector.

  61. Gently pull the lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case. Gently pull the lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.
    • Gently pull the lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.

  62. Slide a pick below the lightning connector to further separate the lightning connector assembly from the rear case. Continue to slide the pick until the lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the rear case.
    • Slide a pick below the lightning connector to further separate the lightning connector assembly from the rear case.

    • Continue to slide the pick until the lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the rear case.

  63. Remove the lightning connector assembly. Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly: Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.
    • Remove the lightning connector assembly.

    • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.

    • Make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned so that the two white dots on the iPhone's rear case show through the two circular cutouts in the Lightning flex cable. If they don't, the flex cable will remain misaligned and you won't be able to reconnect it to its socket on the logic board.

  64. A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part. The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly. The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.
    • A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.

    • The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.

    It would be nice to have tips for the best way to actually apply the adheasives on the lightning assembly to beat maintain proper positioning. Otherwise, great guide!

    Casey Morton - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, reapply the display adhesive and follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

93 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Scott Havard

Üyelik tarihi: 27-06-2016

30.594 İtibar

33 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

23 Yorum

The old ones were so easy! Why did Apple have to put the thing under the board!!!???

Christopher Crawford - Yanıt

Prob to discourage people from replacing it themselves instead of sending to apple

Elwen Omara -

Ho un problema dopo aver installato il nuovo connettore. Quando l’iphone e scarico, inserendo il cavo, appare sul display il simbolo batteria. Una volta acceso il cavo non viene più segnalato e la ricarica non continua. Cosa può essere?

Fabio - Yanıt

Can I use this one for the Iphone 8 too ? I havent found one for the Iphone 8.

Manuel Gatti - Yanıt

@manulkamul Not sure if you mean the guide or the part, but in both cases the answer is, unfortunately, no—the 8 is a different animal.

Jeff Suovanen -

Who made this tutorial. obviously they don’t know what they are doing. I have changed dozens of iphone 7+8 charging ports without removing the logic board. You guys are dumb

Dustin - Yanıt

Hey Dustin! This guide presents the safest way for a first time fixer to remove their Lightning connector port, remove old adhesive, and install a new part! I’m not sure how you would have gotten around the adhesive holding the cable down, maybe you were thinking of the 6s?

Sam Lionheart -

When she says remove the four screws from the logic board.” she means five. I learned that the hard way.

Dion Cursus - Yanıt

broke the logic board grounding bracket on step44.. any way to replace the whole thing or fix it? the end part what you have to lift came off. thanks!!

ietse venhuizen - Yanıt

I followed this guide and the microphone is still not working. Is it possible I have a bad part?

This is not my first technology fix, although first through here, and first iPhone 7.

Kristi Buysse - Yanıt

Great guide, thanks for posting. Successfully changed out my lightning connector/microphone assembly.

Separate issue, the replacement part charging and microphone functions work OK, but taptic engine no longer works. (cheap eBay purchase),

Small trade off to actually be able to talk on phone calls now.

Thanks again!

ohendo - Yanıt

Replaced it and now the charging port and mic don’t appear to be working. However, WiFi is working. Go figure. Any suggestions?

Noah Hayling - Yanıt

hi there! first of all i want to say thank you, i do all my repairs through you guys, it truly helps! however, i do have an issue. after replacing the port and re assembled, my phone says unable to activate cause it needs an update, i restored it through itunes and it said unable to update because the update information could not be obtained. Im now sure if this was a problem before i replaced the port or not cause the iphone was not working. any information would be great! thanks so much!

dannythomasbooking13 - Yanıt

I have an iPhone 7 and a 7 plus, does anyone know if it would be possible to take the connector from my 7 and put it into my 7 plus? I don’t want to start the process just to find out it doesn’t fit or something like it’s too small for the 7 plus?

Mekai - Yanıt

Hi Mekai,

The parts are slightly different, and the iPhone 7 connector will most likely be too small to fit in your 7 plus. Here are some product links (with pictures) for the iPhone 7 and iPhone 7 Plus assemblies.

Arthur Shi -

Hello Mr.Harvard,

I recently replaced a lightning assembly on a iphone 7 plus and although I didn't feel to have run into any incidents, when I finished assembling everything, my phone stayed on “searching" for a good while and than just stayed saying ,”no service" when in fact it had no connection issues before the lightning port was replaced. What can I try to do to resolve this?

Amador Sandoval - Yanıt

Hello Amador,

It sounds like an antenna issue. Make sure the antenna cables are properly connected in Step 26. Also check to make sure all connectors are seated.

Arthur Shi -

Arthur,

Thank you very much for the response. After more troubleshooting, I was able to determine that the replacement batch I received of lightning port replacements was the issue. Once I used a part from a different batch, the network issues were resolved. Thank you!

Amador Sandoval - Yanıt

hi, after performing the procedure when the phone is switched on, it remains stuck on the apple. I thought it was a problem of the replacement taken on ebay, so I reassembled the old connector but does the same thing! Help me

Michele Rossi - Yanıt

I just replaced my charging port on a iPhone 7+ and it still won’t charge. Any suggestions?

Willy - Yanıt

Y screw tip will work just as well as an iPhone StandOut.

Jonathan - Yanıt

Your guide was thorough and got me through the difficult process of replacing an IPhone 7 charging port. I used labeled ziplock baggies for each step; attempting this complicated of a repair without labeled baggies would not have ended well. The whole effort took me about 4 hours, but the phone is back from the junk pile and works perfectly!

Jim Taksum - Yanıt

Thank you! I just completed this repair in about two hours following this guide. It takes patience, but you can do it. A lighted headband magnifier is a HUGE help when I work on these kinds of things. Thanks again to ifixit for the quality parts, tools, and guides.

bronyaur - Yanıt

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