Giriş
Use this guide to replace the battery in your Nintendo Switch OLED.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your Switch. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
The Switch OLED uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.
Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste.
Neye ihtiyacın var
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Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
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While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.
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Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.
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Use a Phillips driver, or a JIS driver, to remove the 2 mm-long screw securing the top of the rear case to the frame.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 2 mm-long screws securing the bottom of the rear case to the frame.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the right Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.
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Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
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Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the two 4.3 mm screws securing the rear case to the frame.
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Lift the rear case up from the top of the device and remove it.
Just a heads up that, even after removing the screws, the rear plate is still heavily clipped in place. I recommend using an opening pick or opening tool to carefully pry it up starting at the top and working your way down the sides. Once you get to the bottom, the speaker grilles are a little tricky. They're attached to the rear plate, but they can get stuck easily as you're removing the back plate.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to separate a corner of the tape from the shield plate.
Don't remove the antenna tape or the wires from the tape! The antennae can come off with the large metal shield plate anyways, so why remove them separately?? Extra UNNECESSARY WORK!! Just unscrew the antennae modules themselves, and pop out the antenna wires from the mainboard. Then they will lift with the large metal plate. (Steps 10, 11, 15, 16 are unnecessary, just remove the screws only that hold them down)
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the primary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to reroute the primary antenna's coaxial cable out of its slots in the shield plate.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 4.4 mm screws securing the primary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.
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Insert an opening pick between the primary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
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Pry up with the pick to separate the primary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable.
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Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable from its slot in the frame.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4.4 mm screw securing the secondary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.
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Insert an opening pick between the secondary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
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Pry up with the pick to separate the secondary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 4.4 mm screws securing the shield plate to the frame.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:iFixit Adhesive Remover$19.99
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well along the top edge to weaken the adhesive.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap between the battery and the wall of the battery well.
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Carefully dig the tip of the opening pick underneath the battery and slide it along the edge to begin slicing the adhesive.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Once there's enough room, insert a plastic card underneath the battery and slowly pry the battery up.
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Pry up with the plastic card to completely separate the battery's adhesive.
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Remove the battery.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch OLED Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch OLED Answers community for help.
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1Rehber Yorum
Worked well. In step 9 I found I had to loosen all screws on the joycon sides as the case really wouldn’t move and it was hard to see where it was ”locked”. When tilting for the isoprop alocohol, really do not over tilt or the alocohol will leak out from the cable hole. The old adhesive under the battery was really strong - don’t give up but don’t expect removal to be easy. But be slow and careful and stick with it and it will come loose eventually. Finally, K5 Pro is not available where I live - used MX-6 instead and it appears to work fine. Other than that, thank you for the guide - very helpful and my switch is as new again.
